Easter in China

I had a wonderful Easter today. First I went to mass with Ed, a colleague, at the little church in the old hutongs downtown. When the other people saw the foreign visitors, a nun escorted us from the plastic chairs outside up to the choir loft where we had a bird’s eye view of mass and were right amongst the 50 choir singers.

After mass, several teachers went to the Hotel Mercure for Easter brunch. I didn’t expect that the hotel would celebrate Easter. I thought we’d just have the normal brunch. Wrong. They had lots of chocolate eggs and rabbits. It was so delightful and just 98 rmb per person. The service is so attentive and helpful.

After brunch I had to go into town to pick up some train tickets for my upcoming Qing Ming holiday trip. Who do I bump into but my old friend Ben, the chef of Bon Appetit, and his three boys, who were getting balloon animals from a clown?

Another bonus was we had sun, behind some haze, but still – sun.

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Thankful

Confucian Temple

Thankful. In the United States, yesterday was Thanksgiving, a holiday where people spend time with family and friends and remember the things they’re thankful for.

I think the idea of being thankful and reflecting back on good things in your life is something that naturally happens towards the end of a calendar year. I’m thankful that I’m blessed to live in China and this weekend I got to go to Beijing. I’m also thankful for a wonderful Thanksgiving on the 22nd.

New to The Daily Post? Whether you’re a beginner or a professional, you’re invited to get involved in our Weekly Photo Challenge to help you meet your blogging goals and give you another way to take part in Post a Day / Post a Week. Everyone is welcome to participate, even if your blog isn’t about photography.

Here’s how it works:

1. Each week, we’ll provide a theme for creative inspiration. You take photographs based on your interpretation of the theme, and post them on your blog anytime before the following Friday when the next photo theme will be announced.

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Thanksgiving in Jinan


Yes. I’ve just returned, completely sated, from Thanksgiving at the new Hyatt in downtown Jinan. The food was plentiful and so scrumptious. Probably a hundred dishes easily. I don’t want to tell you about everything I tasted as my gluttony would be fully exposed, but there was salad, several soups including curry pumpkin, which I didn’t try, and young pigeon, which I did. Turkey, ham, roast beef and duck, sauces for all, pastas, including lasagna, roasted vegetables, steamed vegetables, hot pot, sushi, cheeses galore, breads, rolls, sausages, Chinese foods. Any gourmand would be pleased.

Then for dessert there was pumpkin pie, pumpkin cheese cake, pumpkin mini loaves, chocolate souffle, chocolate mouse, chocolate tarts, chocolate cakes. Fruits baked in a wide array of pastries or wrapped in crepes. Gelato – six flavors. Fruits – melons, plums, pears, grapes, apples, citrus of every sort.

I’m so glad the Crowne Plaza’s staff didn’t know what Thanksgiving was. The Hyatt was the place to come.

Also, Thursday was Ladies’ Night in the bar so the women got free cocktails and we all enjoyed the singer and piano player in their chic bar. Tres bien.

Turkey Day in Jeopardy

Last time I was here in the fall we went to the Crowne Plaza for Thanksgiving Dinner. I went there this morning to find out when and how much it would be and no one in the lobby or restaurant floor knew what Thanksgiving was! Did everyone quit? I know that in other years the teachers also had Thanksgiving dinner at Crowne Plaza.

I tried the Sofitel, but they aren’t doing anything special, which makes sense since they aren’t an American owned company.

We’ll check with the Sheraton, way across town, and the new Hyatt. Fingers crossed.

It may be an Italian Thanksgiving.

On another note, I read a post on a Chinese Yahoo group about a linguist who’s amazed at the comments she’s seen on hotel reviews for Beijing. She will come to China for a conference and just cannot believe that the guests are right when they post that the hotel personnel’s English is poor. Clearly, she’s A) never been to China, B) not objective as a scientist and C) jumps to conclusions very easily. She’s pondering doing a study on how people overestimate poor language skill.

A big reason I stay in hostels is that the staff’s English tends to be far better than in hotels. I wonder how she’ll fare when she gets here.

Mooncakes

Today is Mid-Autumn Festival in China and the common gift is mooncakes. Above you see the ones my school gave me. Throughout the neighborhood there are vendors selling these cakes, which I’ve learned can be used as a secondary currency creating problems of corruption.

I don’t like the one’s with bean paste, but the nut-filled ones are okay. The trick for me is to eat about a quarter of a cake a day. They’re pretty heavy and the sweetness can get excessive.

The Tickets

Well, today was supposed to be the big day, the day we could purchase our train tickets back to Jinan. I got some students to write a note explaining what I needed to a ticket agent. I was told the booking agency opened at 9am and I didn’t know if there’d be a line because of the holiday so I went at 8:30.

One man was ahead of me. He soon got his tickets. My turn. The woman looked at my note like it was a used tissue, but she did check her computer. She then said something I didn’t understand. The college kids behind me giggled and shrugged their shoulders. They weren’t going to be able to help. I called the foreign affairs office and gave the phone to the agent. I then learned that the tickets from that city couldn’t be sold till 3 or 4 pm today and the agent wasn’t sure when. Huh?

Is this a system? A system for a country that’s got 1.3 billion and sophisticated high speed trains that Americans only dream of? I guess it is.

I really had some doubts about whether I was getting the full story. Yet there was absolutely nothing I could do about that. I told the assistant, who had at the start of all this told everyone she would buy our tickets if we were going away, that it seemed we’d have to wait till she could do this at 4pm.

Well, long story short 4pm arrives and there’s no word. At 5pm we find out all the sleeper cars are sold out. Neither of us wants to do two 11 hour overnight trips in a hard seat. So we’re flying. I booked tickets with elong.com and a blogger saw my earlier post and said we should leave from nearby Zhengzhou, not Luoyang (which would mean traveling via Beijing and spending twice as much money).

I’m not thrilled, to say the least. I feel this process was bungled and we tried so hard when things were looking bad to do it ourselves, but it’s just not possible. Even if I spoke Chinese, I’d have run into trouble as the system’s so complicated and mysterious.

I am happy to have a way back and will just have to live with the added expense. We’ll also have to find another hotel room. I’ll figure that out shortly.

Come On

I followed my orders. I reminded the assistant that she needed to get our return tickets today. I did this first thing. She then replied to my email. Then we called her at 2:30 after the rest time to check on the status. Well, she wouldn’t be going till after 4pm.

What? She’s Chinese and knows that these tickets are hard to come by. She knows that we might be stuck in Henan.

She said it was too early to get the tickets. Hardly. And she knows it and we know she’s making this up to save face. Round and round we go as is the custom in the Middle Kingdom. Mind you we could have gotten our own tickets at 10am since we finished for the day then, but the assistant had offered. Yes, offered twice.

We quickly phoned a student to see if she could get the tickets as we were now downtown and didn’t have money with us. The student went into action. However, at the ticket agency she learned that all the tickets for Saturday are sold out. How about Sunday, you ask?

Sorry those tickets won’t go on sale till tomorrow. That’s the national “system.” Ugh!

We’re on pins and needles, though I’m feeling a bit better as a Texan expat tipped me off on the best way to fly to Jinan if we need to. We don’t have to go via Beijing or Shanghai. Zhengzhou is close to Luoyang and they have flights to Jinan.

October Chaos

Autumn Festival in China is next week so it’s time to make travel arrangements. The smart thing to do is to leave the country as in-country travel will be overcrowded, but we don’t have multiple entry visas, though we asked for them. Thus we’re here and this is the only vacation time so we need to make the most of it.

A friend and I decided to visit the Longmen Caves near Luoyang. They’re massive Buddhist sculptures carved into the sides of caves. That won’t take a week to see so we wanted to seek some sights in neighboring Kaifeng.

Last Wednesday I asked for the train tickets. In China you can’t buy tickets more than 10 days in advance. We planned to leave on the 30th. On Friday the Foreign Affairs assistant called from the travel agent. All the overnight sleeper cars were sold out. It’s an 11 hour ride to Kaifeng and more to Luoyang so sleeper makes the most sense. We asked for October 1. Sold out. The 2nd? Only hard seats. Really? Really.

Flying isn’t an option because there are no flights to Luoyang from Jinan. We’d have to go via Beijing or Shanghai, both of which are completely out of the way.

Well, okay. We don’t want to miss a chance to explore more of China. You’d think you might be able to to book the return ticket, but you’re wrong. Since it’s more than 10 days till the Saturday we want to return we have to wait till this Wednesday. Thus we live with that nagging question of can we return in time for school?

So we’ve got our hard seat tickets and await news on our return tickets. I’m praying for soft sleeper. Dare I?

Celebrate!

Source: csmonitor.com

Easter in China

Yesterday Kristyn and I went to the Crowne Plaza to see if they were offering an Easter brunch. Our hopes were raised when we saw a poster with beautiful Easter eggs advertising a “Classic Easter Brunch.” Okay, I’m not new to China so I figured we should ask about the menu before gathering the teachers to splurge. I told the hostess what we wanted and she went back to the kitchen to ask the chef about the Easter offerings.

It took awhile, but when she returned with another hostess, she told us there would be kids’ food: popcorn and French fries. Kristyn and I just smiled. I asked what country was the chef from? (A couple years ago we went there for Thanksgiving dinner and we got turkey and the works.) The teacher in me informed the hostess that Easter isn’t mainly a children’s hospital and that there was special holiday food involved. She asked me what we wanted and promised they’d have it. Well, we thanked her and said no.  They can’t get baked ham or leg of lamb that easily. On as Saturday? They’d probably get some awful substitutes.

Then we went on to the cathedral to find out what time mass would be.  I’d asked our support person to call two churches I’d seen on the internet. One seemed Protestant and I asked T. to ask about the denomination. I also told her to call the Catholic cathedral. T told me that the first church isn’t Protestant and they weren’t doing anything special for Easter. Huh? Are they Jehovah’s Witness? In China? What denomination doesn’t commemorate Easter with zeal? She couldn’t find out about Catholic mass. Later she told me it was at 9 am, which was hard to believe as in the past it was much earlier and in the evening.

So we ventured over to the cathedral where we saw lots of boards and heard the buzz of construction.  A woman who spoke English told us mass was at 6am (out), 8:30 am and 5:30pm.

Four of us wound up going to the 8:30 mass. I’d hoped that the construction was in its late stages and that there’d be mass in the cathedral, but we weren’t that lucky.  Instead it was held in a small side chapel, which was packed. Intrepid or pushy, we made our way inside. Bev, who’s got a broken arm, and Helene got seats as did Kristyn. I wasn’t too bad off as I was in the way back and could lean on the wall or perch myself on a nearby table.  Though the proceedings were all in Chinese, if you know the ritual, you know what’s happening when pretty much.

They had a lovely choir and during the long homily, which might have been great, if I knew Chinese, a woman passed out. She was near the back and it seemed like she actually had a stroke rather than fainted.

After communion, I went outside where hordes of people were listening and praying. When mass let out, in went back in to get some photos and a wizened man exclaimed “Happy Easter!” in his best English. People were very hospitable and Bev and Helene met two young Chinese women who’re studying French. So we spoke with them (I could understand most of what they said.)

They live at Jenny's

Not thrilled with the expensive pop corn and French fries, we went to Jenny’s Cafe for breakfast. Good French toast and coffee drinks in a cozy atmosphere.

 

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