White Horse Temple, Luoyang

In Luyoang we went to the White Horse Temple, the place from which Buddhism spread in China. There are several legends relating to this beginning. I’m not sure why since by 266 A.D. when the first Buddhists came to China, they had a habit of writing down history. The legend that both Wikipedia and my Lonely Planet offer is that some Emperor Ming had a dream about Buddhism and sent some men to find out about it. In Afghanistan, the emperor’s emissaries met two Indian Buddhist monks, whom they persuaded to come to China to help establish Buddhism there. At this point, historians think that’s a legend.

Still the temple is big and well established and draws a lot of visitors. Like most temples, there are several buildings landscaped with tall trees giving the compound a tranquil feeling. We went early so it wasn’t too crowded.

This temple seems quite active internationally. Along one side they’re constructing a group of Thai style wats donated by Thais and an Indian temple area donated and designed by Indians. According to CCTV English, they’ll also start adding a Burmese temple area.

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Impressions of Henan

It’ll take some reflection and time before I can give a full narrative of my five day trip to Kaifeng and Luoyang in Henan, the province just south of here. Let me start with a few impressions:

  • Henan’s traffic is even crazier and wilder than Shandong’s. It’s not as chaotic as Indonesia, but almost. Many’s the time I thought one second slower, one centimeter to the side and I’d be in the hospital.
  • Henan’s food isn’t as good as Shandong’s. Sorry, it just isn’t.
  • People in Henan are helpful and friendly.
  • There’s a lot more poverty in Henan and it’s more severe.
  • The air quality is wretched. We never had a sunny day or a rainy one.
  • Henan’s sights and museums are well worth the trip

Welcome to America

Yesterday I saw Marjorie*, a former SUST student arrived last Thursday in Chicago to begin her Masters program in Finance at DePaul. I met her yesterday. My head still spins.

I’m quite upset with her living conditions. Marjorie didn’t want to pay for the student housing as she wants to economize. Given the ease, social opportunities and safety, I tried and failed to convince her to start in student housing.

Instead she’s living off the beaten track in a modern day tenement. It took me quite a while to find the apartment. When I buzzed for her, she soon came down and to meet me in the lobby. She’d forgotten the key but said we could go in the side entrance which “is always open.” Wide open and visible from the street is more like it.

To get the key, Marjorie had to go up to the 17th floor to a different apartment where the key for her 9th floor apartment is kept. There’s one key though eventually at least 4 people will stay in apt. 901 with Marjorie. Believe it or not she paid $1500 for this hovel.

Marjorie found this place on the internet. It’s a temporary housing solution. She’s sleeping on the floor in the living room with two other Chinese new arrivals. A couple people will soon arrive and sleep in the bedroom. There are no beds, just blankets on the floor and two chairs. The apartment smelled awful.

We spent some time on the DePaul website looking for a better apartment and sent some email queries about a couple. Marjorie met a woman at orientation Monday and agreed to  room with her though “she seems rather domineering.” The domineering woman is Chinese and insists on living in Chinatown so they could buy food.

I asked what happened to Marjorie’s plan to live with non-Chinese roommates to improve her English? That is harder to line up she said. And it is, I agree, but worth it. I pointed out that there’s little point in coming to America if you’re just going to live in Chinatown and that the subway from Chinatown to the loop where she’ll take classes is going to be closed for maintenance for several months and the news has reported that the buses that are to run that route are thought to be insufficient. I don’t think I swayed her.

Marjorie was a good student, but her English has degraded since she couldn’t take English her last two years of college. When she and her future roommate went to see an apartment, the landlord, whom Marjorie said was friendly and talkative told them they should get another roommate who spoke English better since they both have poor English. I’m glad she got that feedback from an impartial source. If short conversations with a landlord are tough, imagine what lies ahead in her course work. My guess has always been that the agent who helped her get into grad school, helped her get a better TOEFL score than she should.

We went to lunch at a Panera Cares and she said this was the first American meal she’s had. There’s a Chinese restaurant called Hunan Cafe (owned not by people from Hunan, but from Guangzhou) near her apartment. Marjorie was quite surprised by the wide range of folks dining here. So many tattoos and characters. One person who stood out was a woman with heavy make up dressed in lace and glitter claiming to be part of the singing group Peaches and Herb.

Later we went downtown to see some of the landmarks in the loop and Millennium Park. Marjorie was most impressed with American drivers and how obedient to the laws they were. She now understood why we teachers can be intimidated by crossing the streets of China. She also noticed how candid people are with their opinions. She couldn’t believe how the landlord responded when she mentioned she was studying finance. (Something along the lines of “Why would you want to join the ranks of those folks?”)

I am beating the bushes trying to find a better place for Marjorie to live. I think the bargain apartment she dreams of will in the end cost more than the student housing that comes with furniture and roommates who’ll require that she use English.

*Not her real name

Weekly Photo Challenge: Through

I took this while wondering through the hutongs downtown

In the winter in China you need to go through these vinyl blanket-like panels to enter the grocery store

New to The Daily Post? Whether you’re a beginner or a professional, you’re invited to get involved in our Weekly Photo Challenge to help you meet your blogging goals and give you another way to take part in Post a Day / Post a Week. Everyone is welcome to participate, even if your blog isn’t about photography.

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The Man Who Loved China

Simon Winchester‘s The Man Who Loved China chronicles the life of Joseph Needham (a.k.a. 李约瑟), a British scientist whose work and writings taught the West about China’s scientific firsts. Needham was a curious, eccentric guy. He made a splash at Cambridge as an embryologist. In his spare time, he was a nudist, socialist, philanderer, liberal Christian who loved Morris Dancing.

The first part of the book introduces readers to Needham, his background and all his quirks. Also it covers his engagement and marriage to Dorothy Moyle, another scientist, who studied muscles and who was very tolerant of her husband’s affairs. She wasn’t threatened by Needham’s mistress Lu Gwei-djen, a Chinese scientist who captured his heart and eventually moved down the street from the Needhams. Meeting Lu sparked Needham’s affection for China.

The middle third (more or less) recounts Needham’s time in Chongching during World War II. Actually, I was surprised that Needham only spent 5 years in China and that he’d come so recently. Before reading the gook I had the notion that Needham was a contemporary of say Lafcadio Hearn, the Japanophile who lived in Japan in the 19th century. Wrong.

Since Needham had mastered Chinese and was keen to travel to the Middle Kingdom, the British government sent him there to aid Chinese scientists who had fled into the western parts of China to escape the Japanese. Needham traveled the country meeting scientists and gathering data for what would be his opus, a multi-volume Science and Civilization in China. His travails are fascinating. Yet, before you know it Needham must head back to England.

The last third of the book describes the conflicts and eventually illness that Needham faces back in Europe. Since he was in China, he couldn’t develop his relationships at Cambridge so he doesn’t have the supporters he needs when he falls into trouble through naivete and poor judgment. He has to weather some harsh storms after heading a committee and unwittingly playing a patsy for the Chinese government during the McCarthy era.

I found the first two thirds of the book most interesting, and the final third lost momentum, but then that’s the case for a lot of people’s lives. The story of Needham writing and publishing a major work of scientific history is hard to make compelling.

I liked learning tidbits about China that I can throw into conversation. They invented toilet paper and stirrups, which were a small but important advance that helped the military and others ride for longer periods of time. Since the Chinese built really good stone bridges throughout the country even in kind of no man’s lands, it was hard for invaders to take over the country. The Chinese could move about the network of roads with bridges so easily. Many of these bridges are still in use. (Funny that building well, for the long term has stopped here.)

Reading about Needham was fascinating, probably more than really knowing him. He’s the kind of guy I’d roll my eyes at. The expat who comes to Asia and within a week is dressing in silk robes, someone who has to be more Chinese than the Chinese around him, I’m guessing. I did like that Winchester inserted a lot of objective insights. So he let us know that while Needham thought Chongqing was a heavenly city, other expats weren’t as enchanted and complained about the smells and filth. That’s how things really are. There’s always a range of reactions of opinions and attitudes amongst expats of their adopted home. It was good to see this aspect included.

Downton Abbey Withdrawal?

Wouldn't you want to live here?

There’s a good documentary on English manor homes available on the PBS website. Elucidating, though not as witty.

China’s Economy – Prosperity and Poverty walk hand in hand (letting the Gini (sic) out of the bottle)

China’s Economy – Prosperity and Poverty walk hand in hand (letting the Gini (sic) out of the bottle). Well, worth reading.

 

Here in Jinan it seems very middle class, but then while it’s not as bad as out west, we do have our beggars and some people are struggling. I wouldn’t trade places with the construction workers who’re here.

Aida

As I’ve come to expect, the Lyric Opera‘s Aida blew me away. Since signing up for the Lyric’s NExT program that offers $20 student discount tickets, I’ve discovered that I really like opera, at least some operas. Although all the NExT tickets were gone by the time, I bought my tickets, I felt the $55 tickets would be a wise purchase and they were.

My friend Maryann and I went on a Friday afternoon and first went to the pre-opera lecture. WFMT‘s Carl Grapentine, who’s got a sonorous voice, offered background that made the opera all the more meaningful. We learned that Verdi was rejected when he applied to the conservatory in Milan, which today is called Conservatorio di musica “Giuseppe Verdi” di Milano. Ha! Take that!

Aida is Verdi’s 26th opera and was commissioned by an Egyptian khedive (i.e. viceroy, i.e. a king’s representative). Grapentine explained Aida’s genesis and story, and I highly encourage audience members to attend the free pre-opera lecture which starts an hour before the curtain.

Briefly, Aida has a plot Aristotle would love as the characters are tied together in such a way that only tragedy can result. Ethiopia and Egypt are at war. Aida is an Ethiopian slave serving the Egyptian princess, Amneris. Both women love the same man, Radames, a strapping young Egyptian warrior. He loves Aida, but becomes engaged to Amneris, who senses her fiancé has eyes for someone else. Who?

As if this isn’t enough drama, Aida is the daughter of the Ethiopian king Amonasro, who’s been captured by Radames. Every one of the three main characters’ hearts are divided between loyalty, patriotism and true love.

No one’s going to walk off into the sunset and though as a modern viewer of stories in every media available, I get a steady diet of happy endings, I’m perfectly fine with this tragedy. I wish Hollywood trusted in the power of tragedy as the Greeks and Shakespeare’s peers did. We don’t always need things tied up with a bow at the end. Really.

A feast for the eyes and ears, Aida features masterful singing, spectacular sets, lavish costumes, and beautiful dancing. The English translations for the Italian lyrics are projected overhead so that even those, like us, in the nosebleed seats can follow the story easily.

Quakers in Seoul, from my archives

Today I finally went to my first Quaker meeting. I’ve been curious about them since my cousin Rick told me about their lobbying work and website, both of which I feel are terrific tools for social justice.

Since my friend Bill left Seoul, I don’t want to bother going all the way up to Songbuk-dong to the English mass that’s rather old fashioned. After mass there’s this awkward social time when people gather outside and mingle. The men flock together, the white “soccer moms” flock together and the women of other races flock together. It’s this weird grouping after church that bugs me. Also, the soccer mom group feels so uninviting since I’m not married, even though with a degree and interest in children’s education I can contribute to their conversation. When Bill lived here I could join the men’s group, where there was more interesting talk without being perceived as a hussy. (It’s all so ridiculous.)

We have mass at Sogang in Korean every Sunday, but that’s hard to follow. (Impossible.) Twice a month there’s English mass, a new event, and I’ve been going there and am satisfied. Yet I thought I’d see what the Quakers were like to fill out the other 2 Sundays a month.

I went with Linda, who’d been before. When we arrived there were a few people (say 5) quietly sitting and we joined their circle. Then more people came in quietly. At 11 we started to meditate without any direction or discussion. That continued for 50 minutes. Evidently in the U.S. latecomers aren’t permitted, but here stragglers, noisy ones, kept coming even at 11:40.

At 11:50 one man started reading something in Korean. Fine. That wasn’t translated so I have no idea what it was about. Then an American man started speaking. He said, “You know it’s really hard to talk to you people.” The tone was tense and full of simmering frustration, perhaps even hostility. He sort of rambled. Perhaps he didn’t want to upset anyone. Yet he was clearly upset. He talked about the concept of covenent. That it’s like a promise, but stronger. He wanted to convey that if you join a religious group you enter into a convenent agreeing to be willing to let that religion or faith or group change you rather than you changing it. I can see his point, though I don’t agree completely. I think sometimes you might have a responsibility to change it. All this would depend on how long you’ve been in the group and what you tried to change. Dealing in such generalities is meaningless anyway.

Someone proceeded to translate.

Then a Korean man commented that this was his second time there and he thought the service would benefit from changing the format so that they read more scripture. Aha! I see what the first guy was talking about. The main thrust (for a few centuries) of Quakers is the silent, communal worship. Here some new guy who doesn’t know much about the tradition saying, “Change your ways ‘cuz that’s how my church does it.”

There wasn’t any discussion, just more silence. Linda asked if they had a query for the month. Evidently, the tradition is to offer a query at the start of every month as something for individuals to meditate on.
In 1682, London Yearly Meeting started asking representatives from quarterly and monthly meetings a number of factual questions on Friends and their activities. In the 1700s, these questions were revised to allow them to be used to ensure consistency of conduct among Friends as well as the reporting on the state of the Society. In 1833, they were rewritten and expanded to emphasize evangelical principles and to encourage Friends to consider whether they should not adopt them personally.
Further revisions and extensions took place every 20 – 40 years. The present text was approved by London (now Britain) Yearly Meeting in 1994 (English Quakers)
Here’s a few examples:1 “If pressure is brought upon you to lower your standard of integrity, are you prepared to resist it? Our responsibilities to God and our neighbour may involve us in taking unpopular stands. Do not let the desire to be sociable, or the fear of seeming peculiar, determine your decisions.”
Advices and Queries, 1994, No.38

2 We are subject to all the persuasive powers of commerce and are influenced by family, friends and neighbours. Take time to understand yourself, your real needs and your true potential. Try to bring all your actions in line with this understanding and your knowledge of the world around you.

3 “Try to live simply. A simple lifestyle freely chosen is a source of strength. Do not be persuaded into buying what you do not need or cannot afford. Do you keep yourself informed about the effects your style of living is having on the global economy and environment?” (ibid)
Interesting points to ponder.

One guy perked up at Linda’s question and said that would be nice if they went back to that tradition. No one commented further. My guess is the current group consists of some anti-query types.

The service was sort of falling apart. Lots of tense, disappointed quiet, so Linda and I left and went out to lunch.

From October, 2006

Manga Showdown: Chicago

Manga Showdown, a popular comic event series with prominent Japanese comic writer Rieko Saibara, is coming to Chicago!
Manga Showdown Website

This time, Rieko Saibara will have a “comic match” with Mari Yamazaki, another prominent Japanese comic writer who lives in Chicago. The event will be only in Japanese without English translation, but any manga fans are welcome to join!

There will be a photo session with the comic writers at the end of the event.

Sunday, June 26, 2:30 – 4:00 PM
Harper College, Wojcik Conderence Center
1200 W. Algonquin Rd. Palatine, IL 60067
ITickets are $10
Tickets and information is available on the Japanese Chamber of Commerce & Industry of Chicago.
Ticket registration

Disclaimer

Dear Fellows, The State Department has requested that any Fellows who maintain their own blog or website please post the following disclaimer on your site: "This website is not an official U.S. Department of State website. The views and information presented are the English Language Fellows' own and do not represent the English Language Fellow Program or the U.S. Department of State." We appreciate your cooperation. Site Meter
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